Italian authorities have launched a major investigation into suspected labour exploitation within the supply chains of some of the world's most famous luxury fashion brands. The probe, initiated by a Milan prosecutor, has placed 13 high-end labels under scrutiny for their alleged links to subcontractors accused of exploiting Chinese workers in Italy.
Which Brands Are Involved?
According to official documents issued on Thursday, December 4, 2025, and seen by the AFP news agency, the list of suspected brands reads like a who's who of global luxury. The names include Gucci, Prada, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent.
The documents specifically mention Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alexander McQueen, all of which are part of the French luxury conglomerate Kering. Also named is Givenchy, which belongs to the rival French giant LVMH.
Other Italian fashion houses on the list are the Prada Group (including its recent acquisition, Versace), Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, and Pinko. The sportswear behemoth Adidas and the brands Off-White and Coccinelle complete the roster of 13.
The Basis of the Investigation
The investigation stems from searches conducted at Italian workshops that employed Chinese labour. During these raids, authorities discovered luxury items such as bags, wallets, and clothing being produced under what are described as exploitative working conditions.
It is crucial to note that, as of now, the brands themselves are not under formal investigation. Instead, the Milan prosecutor has requested them to swiftly provide comprehensive documentation regarding their supply chains. This request includes internal audit reports that could shed light on their manufacturing processes and subcontractor relationships.
This case highlights the widespread industry practice of subcontracting, where brands outsource production to suppliers, who may then further delegate the work. This creates complex, multi-layered supply chains where oversight of labour standards can become weak, especially when profit margins are tight.
Legal Repercussions and Official Response
The probe has significant legal weight under Italian law. Legislation holds companies potentially responsible for offences committed by their representatives, including approved suppliers, if those acts are done in the company's interest.
This is not an isolated incident for Milan's prosecutors. They have previously launched similar investigations into other prestigious names, including Tod's, Loro Piana, Dior's Italian subsidiary Manufactures Dior, Giorgio Armani Operations, and Alviero Martini.
The Italian government has reacted strongly to the allegations. Industry Minister Adolfo Urso has stated that the reputation of iconic Italian brands is "under attack", signalling a defensive stance from the authorities as the scandal unfolds.
The coming weeks will likely see the involved luxury groups scrambling to provide transparency and distance themselves from the alleged malpractice, as global scrutiny on ethical fashion and supply chain accountability intensifies.
