In the sun-drenched region of Provence, southern France, the sweet aroma of marzipan fills the air as master confectioners craft calissons, a centuries-old delicacy. This scene, however, is now part of a significant agricultural revival. French producers are actively working to restore local almond cultivation, a tradition that had nearly vanished, to counter the overwhelming dominance of American almonds in the global market.
A Sweet Tradition Reborn
For over a decade, French growers have been on a mission to bring back almond production to its historic heartland. Provence, whose almond blossoms famously inspired artists like Vincent Van Gogh, was once a key growing region. However, production suffered a severe blow in the mid-20th century, particularly after the devastating frost of 1956 that wiped out countless orchards. Today, while the United States grows the vast majority of the world's almonds, French producers are carving out a premium niche by emphasizing superior flavour and environmental stewardship.
Le Roy René, a confectionery company based in Aix-en-Provence with over a century of history, is at the forefront of this movement. The company now uses approximately 50 tonnes of locally grown almonds annually to produce traditional treats like calissons and nougat. According to Alexis Bertucat, the company's communications director, the difference in quality is unmistakable. "I bet that if you taste an American almond and then a Provence-grown almond, you'll notice the difference in flavour immediately," he stated.
Drivers of the Revival: Taste and Sustainability
The push for local almonds is driven by both culinary and ecological motives. When Olivier Baussan, founder of L'Occitane en Provence, purchased Le Roy René in 2014, the company relied on imports from the US and Spain. The decision to source locally was a conscious effort to reconnect with the region's 15th-century confectionery heritage and reduce environmental impact.
"If we use almonds that are closer to home, we reduce our carbon footprint," explained Bertucat. He also credited Provençal farmers for their sustainable practices, such as specific irrigation methods and focusing on creating living soil, which results in almonds with a higher fat content. This quality, when combined with candied melon and sugar, creates the distinctive, rich flavour of a true calisson.
Official figures show that France now has more than 2,700 hectares of almond trees. However, the annual production of shelled almonds stands at only about 1,200 tonnes, a figure dwarfed by the 50,000 tonnes of almonds imported each year. This highlights the scale of the challenge. Producer François Moulias, who co-founded La Compagnie des Amandes with former minister Arnaud Montebourg in 2018, acknowledged the gap. "We would need 50,000 hectares of almond trees to cover our needs," he said.
A Niche Market with Premium Appeal
French almond growers accept that they cannot compete with the massive yields of American industrial farming. Instead, they position their product in the high-end market. Moulias pointed out that their "more virtuous agricultural practices" use five times less water than the water-intensive almond farms in California. A new processing plant launched in October now supplies premium pastry makers like Ladurée, supermarkets, and the cosmetics industry.
For farmers like Fabien Dauphin, president of the Provence almond producers' union, this revival is also personal. He began growing almonds in 2011 to diversify his cherry farm, following in the footsteps of his great-grandfather, who owned almond trees before the 1956 frost. With 22 hectares in the village of Cucuron, almond sales now account for half of his income, primarily through online and direct market sales to high-purchasing-power customers.
Looking ahead, Dauphin is even considering branching out into pistachio production, another nascent industry in France, citing shared equipment and customer bases. The revival of the French almond is more than an agricultural story; it is a deliberate strategy to preserve cultural heritage, promote sustainability, and offer a superior, locally-sourced product in a market long dominated by overseas giants.
